Mac classic ii service manual

Macs released after System 7. When System 7. The double decimal releases of 7.

Classic Mac Repair

They simply are not in demand, even at a few dollars each, or I don't have the ones requested, or I'm keeping what I have for testing. Apple System diskettes: Moved to the old Mac software Web page, except copies of Apple System 5, 6, 7, and earlier software diskettes. Drivers for Mac and other hardware If we have a driver for some piece of hardware, it will be noted in the same place where we offer the hardware. So go to my Mac home page and look for the appropriate section of my Web site.

Software and manuals for many network cards are on my Mac Network page. You may already have it. Check my list of Mac Web pointers to find the correct Web location on Apple's site for such software.

Background and Information

Also; even if your Web browsing system CAN write those disks, if a file is bigger than the disk capacity you can't copy it over to your older Mac! A solution to both problems is to physically "link" your newer and older systems and do a file transfer. The "hardware" to do that is a simple connection between the serial ports; you need the wires and correct pin connections to do that, I won't discuss that here. You might get some info about that on the WEb, or bug me and maybe I'll add a tech note.

The Macintosh Colo(u)r Classic FAQ

The software is what is called a "terminal emulator" or "telecomm program" that lets each system send and recieve files to the other. In the old days, even before the Internet, people "dialed up" computers via the phone and then used simple text-based commands to send email and messages as well as to access files. Those same programs can run between more modern computers today, without the Web or Internet or even modems if the computers are in the same room! But these programs support modems as well. ANd there were similar programs in the old Mac world.

Apparently the author of this program offers it for download for trial, and sold for a fee.

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A Web search on "Zterm mac" will find that site. Other Web searches can find other telecomm programs. Just insert the jaws and squeeze. You can find a similar tool at any hardware or hobbyist shop or Home Depot or Office Depot. Instead of the pull-apart tool, you can use a medium to long flat-blade screwdriver to open the computer's case.

Mac Books and Software

So, a spudger or screwdriver might work, but it looks like the "case-cracker" intended for this job is a spring clamp of some kind. Home Questions Tags Users Unanswered. Ask Question. Charles Mangin Charles Mangin 2 2 silver badges 6 6 bronze badges. Good luck! John Parker 2 2 silver badges 12 12 bronze badges. No need for a special tool except the long screwdriver for getting at the two screws in the handle. Then Mac face down to open it is the right way. That's actually the position used to build it in manufacturing. I advise to put a towel down, double-folded to protect the glass. And I wouldn't lift more than about inches until you've confirmed the back case is separated.

Legacy Electronics E7: Mac Classic II

You don't want to lift quickly and have the monitor drop 10 inches to the table. All you need is a long reach Torx T15 to get at the screws and a large bull dog clip 1"-2" to crack the case open. Nothing else. Greenonline Greenonline 1 1 gold badge 7 7 silver badges 28 28 bronze badges. A number of different spudgers sizes, stiffness, etc.

Mostly be careful not to damage the case, a screwdriver is tempting but I've damaged the plastic on a MacPlus prying it apart.

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Yes, which is why I say this in the first sentence of the answer It is definitely not a spudger as it is too narrow and soft to get any leverage on the two halves of the case. The blade , as it were, needs to be at least an inch wide. Yeah, my follow-up made it clear that everyone has a different notion of this, but they are all stiffer than the usual spudger.

The second procedure should be showing you how to establish a solid connection of the CRT bottle to ground. Be very cautious and do not work alone. If you connect the High Voltage through your heart, e. The screen on a monochrome Mac is a direct window into the state of the memory.

  • Section 1 — General Colo(u)r Classic;
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  • Troubleshooting?

These Macs use a main-memory-mapped screen buffer, so bars or stripes indicate some of your memory is not working properly. You can use an alligator clip from one end of a heavy wire and connect that to a metal grounding point on the chasis, as near as posible to the grounding pin of the power cord. As Grant mentioned, the power cord needs a good ground as well.

The alligator clip at the other end of the wire should be connected to exposed metal near the tip of the screw driver. The flat blade of a slotted screw driver will give you the means to slide under the rubber boot on the top of the CRT. This upper point of contact puts the short and a potential spark away from the motherboard. The loudness of the pop or snap will depend on how long the computer has been turned off. Remember to have the power cord plugged in but power switch off. Otherwise, it will just regenerate the high voltage. I then unplug immediately to avoid that problem.

You can buy or make a grounding plug by cutting up an old power cord. If you remove a section of the black and white wires from the cord and then tape up the exposed area, you now have a grounding cord that can stay plugged in but not supply power - Provided that the outlet is wired properly and you do not have a hot green grounding wire. Proceed with caution and start with the RAM. It most likely has the tin coated contacts as mentioned. User profile for user: John Helock John Helock.

It is caused by leaking capacitors on the logicboard. Just google simasimac for info. Definitely discharge the crt. The Classic II's did use bleeder type flyback transformers, but you never know.